How to Grow A Pumpkin Plant (And Other Winter Squash)
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Pumpkins are the quintessential fall crop. They bring to mind family memories, hay rides, and corn mazes. And there are so many different kinds of pumpkins! From pie pumpkins (sugar pumpkins) for cooking to decorative pumpkins for the front porch to giant pumpkins for the county fair to Jarrahdale pumpkins with great storage capabilities and even carving pumpkins for fall fun.
In this complete growing guide, you’ll learn about varieties of pumpkins, the best time to sow, how to plant and grow any winter squash, and prevention methods for common pests and diseases that can attack your pumpkin plant.
If you want to create your own seasonal magic by growing a pumpkin patch or any other type of squash, you are in the right place. Use these helpful resources to successfully grow squash in your home garden:
When choosing which varieties you will grow, remember that different varieties are better suited for different uses. I’ve dedicated an entire blog post to winter squash varieties to help you select the best ones for your garden and needs.
Whichever varieties you choose, insist on quality and get your pumpkin seeds from a reputable source.
At MIgardener, we are passionate about preserving heirloom fruit and vegetable varieties! We strive to raise awareness about them and make it possible for all of you to try absolutely amazing, rare varieties.
As promised, we are planting seed plots at the new farm with four near-extinct squash varieties, including the Seminole pumpkin. If you’ve never heard of a Seminole pumpkin before, I’m not surprised.
The Seminole pumpkin is a very rare, ancient crop that is considered endangered. Originating in Florida, it thrives in humid environments and is naturally disease-resistant, specifically to powdery mildew. We’re so excited to be part of the preservation efforts by growing this squash variety and sharing it with you!
Direct sow pumpkins and winter squash after the last spring frost, ideally when the temperature has reached 70°F. According to Clyde’s Garden Planner, this is usually 4 to 5 weeks after the last spring frost.
You can also start them indoors to get a head start, but remember, they are fast-growing. Be careful not to start them too early, or they will be too advanced and stressed before you get them in the garden.
The style of gardening you choose will determine whether or not you should plant your squash in mounds. Watch the video at the beginning of this blog post to learn when and why to plant squash in mounds. But, here’s a spoiler: modern gardening methods, like growing in raised garden beds and using drip irrigation, generally negate the need to grow squash in mounds.
Follow the steps below to plant out your winter squash:
Location - Pumpkins and winter squash enjoy full sun and room to sprawl out. Choose a location with ample space that won’t be shaded by other plants or structures.
Soil pH - It is always smart to test the soil pH before planting. Winter squash like a pH between 6.0 and 7.5.
Amendments - Before you plant, amend the soil with weed-free finished compost. Winter squash grows best in well-draining, fertile soil! If you have heavy clay soil, amend with equal parts sand and composted organic matter.
Spacing - Plant winter squash seeds and seedlings about 5 to 6 feet apart. (You can start seeds indoors no sooner than 1 to 2 weeks before your last spring frost.) If you are direct sowing seeds in mounds, make mounds 5 to 6 feet apart and plant 2 or 3 seeds per mound, burying each pumpkin seed about 1 inch deep. Pro-Tip: If all three seeds in a mound germinate, you can come back later and thin to one strong plant per mound, or you can let all three grow if you have enough space.
Fertilizer - Next, spread a high-quality all-purpose fertilizer like Trifecta+ around the base of each plant and water it in well. Pro-Tip: Because pumpkins are heavy feeders, you can apply a second round of fertilizer in mid-August.
Watering - I recommend using drip irrigation to reduce splash on the leaves. Whichever watering technique you use, water deeply and allow the top of the soil to dry out between waterings.
Now you are probably thinking, “Should I put down plastic mulch?” I did not include that in the instructions by design because we are using high intensity spacing. The goal is to allow the plants to completely cover the soil as a living mulch. This should protect the soil from the sun and evaporation and suppress weeds.
If you don’t want to be hands-on with your pumpkin patch, chaos gardening may be the method for you. Watch this video where we tried chaos gardening and were shocked at the results!
You know what they say: An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. The best deterrent to pests and diseases is keeping your squash plants healthy and stress-free.
Even then, additional measures may be needed to protect your winter squash. Here are some common issues you may experience and effective treatment methods:
Blossom End Rot (BER) - Several factors can cause BER, the most frequent being a lack of calcium. Read this blog post to learn how to prevent and treat blossom end rot.
Powdery Mildew - Powdery mildew is a common fungal disease that affects squash. Use this guide to identify and treat powdery mildew.
Squash Vine Borer - The dreaded squash vine borer kills a plant about 90% of the time once it invades the stem. Scent masking can be an effective way to repel the squash vine borer, and Thuricide can be used to treat and control them. (Here's more on effective methods to prevent squash vine borers in your pumpkin patch.)
Squash Bugs & Aphids - Neem oil repels squash bugs and aphids and even helps treat powdery mildew. Other common methods to stop squash bugs and aphids include picking them off by hand and covering your plants with row covers.
When fall rolls around, you may find yourself wondering when to harvest pumpkins and other winter squash. Here’s how to tell when your squash are ready to harvest:
Color - Look for a slight color change (different winter squash will turn different colors, so you need to know what color they are supposed to be when fully mature).
Fingernail Check - Simply take your thumbnail and press it into the skin of the squash. (This will not affect the shelf life of the squash.) If your thumbnail breaks the skin, the squash is not ready yet. If your thumbnail leaves a mark without breaking the skin, it is ready to harvest!
Happy Gardening!
Growing a pumpkin takes about 100 to 120 days, depending on the variety and growing conditions.
They are relatively easy to grow if you follow the steps outlined in this blog post to give them the right growing conditions.
If your pumpkin has adequate energy from sunlight and nutrients, along with warm temperatures, it should produce both female flowers and male flowers. Then, as long as there are pollinators, there should be no problem with fruit production.