How to Grow Gooseberries & Currants: Organic Growing Guide
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Good things come in small packages! That definitely is true with gooseberries and currants, the healthy, delicious fruits that are power-packed with antioxidants. They are a great treat to eat fresh or in jams, sauces, wines, and pastries.
People in England and across Europe grow gooseberries and currants all the time, but they are just starting to gain popularity here. I’m convinced that not enough people are growing them, but you can learn how to grow gooseberries and currants with this complete growing guide.
They are a little tricky, but it won’t take long for me to let you in on the secrets of how to plant a gooseberry bush (from a pot or dormant plant) and how to care for it. Let’s grow bigger!
Growing thriving perennials begins with choosing strong plants! That means stronger root systems, higher survival rates, better yields in the first years, and lower disease pressure.
MIgardener sells quality dormant plants shipped based on your growing zone, ensuring they arrive exactly when it’s time to plant. We also provide these free resources with the essential tips you need to know:
Gooseberries and currants are closely related plants in the genus Ribes. Gooseberries bear larger fruit and may have prickly stems, while currants bear smaller berries and are thornless.
If you love a plant with lots of diversity, then you’re going to love Ribes. There are so many different varieties of gooseberries and currants that you can eat the rainbow from just one type of plant!

Potted gooseberry and currant plants that you get from a nursery should be planted in the spring after the last frost or in the fall. If you have ordered bare root dormant plants, they need to be planted in the spring as soon as possible after the soil is workable.

You have to get the soil right when planting gooseberries and currants! The soil must be extremely well-draining, loose, rich in organic matter, and neutral pH. Ribes are prone to root rot and to drying out, which will cause them to wither from the top down.
If you plant them in heavy clay soil, it holds onto too much water, and currants will suffer from root rot. That’s why you need a well-draining soil. But you also need plenty of organic matter to hold onto the right amount of moisture so they don’t dry out and wither.
I get a lot of gardeners asking for help, saying that they planted gooseberries or currants, but even with proper watering and fertilization, their plants are withering from the top down. That is a soil issue!

For all intents and purposes, planting and growing gooseberries and currants is the same. They are both very, very cold-hardy, thriving in the cooler climates of growing zones 3 to 5 and even growing up to zone 7.
Ribes are a bit particular, so it's important to follow this guide to the letter, or chances are your plants will struggle:
Sunlight - Ideally, they should get about 5 ½ hours of sunlight each day. If you give them too much sun, they are going to fry! Planting them next to a house or building where they will be shaded half of the day is a great idea, especially in hotter climates.
Soil pH - Currants and gooseberries do not like overly acidic or alkaline soil. They prefer a neutral pH or they will begin to wither, not take up nutrients, have leaf chlorosis, and drop flowers and fruit. It’s always smart to test your soil pH with a soil pH meter and amend if needed before planting.
Prepare the Soil - Ensure your soil is loose, well-draining, and rich in organic matter. Mix in lots of finished compost (compost will also act as a pH buffer to keep the pH around 7.0).
Fertilize - Add a high-nitrogen fertilizer at the time of planting. I use ¼ cup of Trifecta+ per plant, but you could also use blood meal or fish emulsion fertilizer.
Planting Depth - Dig a hole twice the width and the same depth as the root ball. Plant the canes so the root ball is just below the surface of the soil, with the crown about 2 inches below the soil line.
Plant Spacing - Space plants 2 ½ to 3 feet apart. Currants are ideal for small gardens because they do not require much space, but don’t plant them any closer or they will suffer from mold and other issues due to poor air flow.
Water - Water well after planting. I water gooseberries and currants about three times a week during the growing season.

You absolutely, positively must fertilize currants and gooseberries twice a year! Ribes are very heavy feeders and fast growers.
If you don’t give them a good quality, high-nitrogen fertilizer (like fish emulsion fertilizer, blood meal, or Trifecta+) in the spring, they’ll slow down and drop off in fruit production. Then, they need plenty of phosphorus in the fall, when nights start to consistently drop below 50°F, to get them ready for winter.
When fertilizing perennial plants, I recommend using Trifecta+ fertilizer because it provides an immediate boost and continues feeding plants throughout the season with all the nutrients and trace minerals they need for each stage. Every year, give each of your plants ½ cup of Trifecta+ fertilizer in the spring and fall.

Keep your bushes pruned down to between 2 and 2 1/2 feet tall, encouraging lots of side growth. Pruning this way will help prevent unnecessary foliage and encourage more fruit production.
They typically begin bearing fruit 1-3 years after planting, with full production usually by the third or fourth year.
Gooseberries and currants were federally banned until the 1960s to protect the timber industry because they serve as alternate hosts for white pine blister rust. Some states still have restrictions. Currently, shipping red/white currants and gooseberries to DE, ME, NC, NH & WV is prohibited (MA, MI and NJ by permit only).
Most varieties of currants and gooseberries are self-fruitful, meaning you only need one bush.