How to Transplant Seedlings the Right Way: Secrets Revealed
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Have you ever wondered why some seedlings do great while others fade after transplanting? Transplanting seedlings smoothly from seed trays to their new spots will help them thrive right from the beginning of their time in the garden.
This guide on how to transplant seedlings is for new gardeners and those looking to improve their technique, whether you’re transplanting a tomato, cucumber, or pepper seedling into a bigger pot or directly planting seedlings in the garden.
You’ll learn crucial information about when to transplant seedlings, how to harden off seedlings, how to transplant seedlings, and more.
The quote, “To plant a garden is to believe in tomorrow,” is never more true than when starting seedlings. Every healthy transplanted seedling shows your dedication, patience, and hope for a beautiful, flourishing garden and a bountiful harvest.
I want to help you achieve that goal year after year! That’s why I’ve created these guides for your gardening success:
Transplanting a seedling is the process of moving a delicate young plant from where it was started to another location, usually a larger container or the garden. Ideal transplanting practices allow plants to thrive immediately in their new location.
For gardeners, starting seeds indoors can be one of the most rewarding experiences. It allows you to save a ton of money (versus buying plants at a garden center or greenhouse) and offers the most variety of plants to grow.
After successfully conquering the challenges of starting seeds indoors, you definitely want to avoid damaging or possibly killing the seedlings you’ve grown. A proper transplanting process is the final buffer between your plants and transplant shock!
Transplant shock is a condition caused by the stress of moving a plant to a new location. It can be caused by multiple factors, including root damage, improper planting depth, or drastic changes in growing conditions.
Transplant shock can cause short or long-term growth problems. The symptoms can include wilting, stunted growth, yellowing of leaves, or premature leaf drop.
Identifying the right time to transplant is critical! Don’t make the mistake of seeing true leaves forming or roots sticking out the bottom of the cell and panicking, thinking it’s time to transplant.
Knowing when to transplant seedlings should be done by assessing the overall plant, not just one indicator. I have dedicated an entire blog post to the topic of how to know when to transplant seedlings that you’ll want to read.
Properly hardening off seedlings is a vital step before transplanting them outdoors. The term "hardening off" describes the process of gradually exposing indoor-grown seedlings or plants to outdoor conditions.
Seedlings need gradual exposure over time to adjust to the outside garden environment before they are transplanted outdoors. Wind, rain, UV intensity from the sun, and temperature fluctuations can potentially harm seedlings that are not properly acclimated.
Start this process about a week before you want to plant seedlings in your garden.
For conventionally started seedlings, follow these step-by-step instructions for transplanting seedlings from a cell or container into a larger container or garden.
If you have seedlings started in bulk, like winter sown seedlings in jugs, you’ll need a different transplanting method. You can learn how to spoon transplant seedlings from this video.
If you are transplanting seedlings into larger containers, you will need:
Seedlings - Learn how to start seeds indoors for a thriving garden.
Seedling Pots - When potting up your seedlings you'll need seedling pots. For vegetative crops like lettuce and kale, choose a container that is 3x larger than the original starting container. For fruiting crops like tomatoes and peppers, choose a container that is 4x larger than the original container.
Tray - A tray is very useful for carrying and moving seedlings and for bottom watering. These seed starting pots are designed to fit perfectly in this 1020 Extra Strength Tray.
Seed Starting Mix - Use a quality soil mix that drains well and gives the seedlings the nutrients they need. You can make a great seed starting medium at home or purchase a pre-made seed starting mix. Pro-Tip: Adding fertilizer, like Trifecta+, is required in some store-bought seed starting mixes because the mix does not contain any nutrients.
Water - You will want to have access to water for watering the seedlings.
Dibbler - Although a dibbler is optional, it can make planting easier. A small dibbler is usually used for transplanting small plants.
Gloves - Wearing gardening gloves while transplanting is not necessary but a matter of personal preference.
If you are transplanting seedlings directly into a garden, you will need:
Seedlings - Grab the seedlings you’ve started indoors or the plants you’ve purchased that are ready to be transplanted into the garden.
Water - Keep water on hand in a watering can or hose for watering the seedlings.
Fertilizer - Choose a well-rounded, all-purpose fertilizer like Trifecta+. Trifecta+ contains fast-acting and slow-release nutrients, over 70 trace mineral micronutrients and beneficial bacteria and fungi for optimal plant health.
Dibbler - Having a dibbler is optional, but it can make planting easier. A larger dibbler like this is used to make planting holes in a garden.
Gloves - Again, whether or not you wear gardening gloves while transplanting is up to you.
Follow this step by step guide for smooth transplanting:
Timing - As you read previously in this blog, timing is everything when transplanting seedlings. Assess your seedlings to make sure that they are ready for transplanting.
Planning - Gather your supplies. If you are transplanting outdoors, make sure the seedlings have been properly hardened off! Use the last estimated frost date of your area as a guide for when it’s safe to transplant outdoors. Pro-Tip: Avoid transplanting seedlings outdoors in the midday heat and sun. Plant early in the morning or in the evening after the heat of the day has died down.
Watering - To make handling your seedlings easier, water them a few hours before transplanting them. Also, if you are transplanting into the garden, fertilize and water the space you will be planting in a few hours before. The soil moisture should be enough that it holds together when squeezed but also falls apart easily afterward.
Prepare the Soil - For indoor transplanting into containers, fill one container for each seedling with a prepared seed starting mix. Use a dibbler, marker, or whatever you have on hand to make holes to plant the seedlings in. For outdoor transplanting, use a dibbler or trowel to make holes where you want to plant each seedling.
Remove the Plant - Gently remove one seedling from its container, taking care not to damage the root system. You may need to squeeze the bottom of the cell to loosen the plug before pulling the plant out.
Remove the Competition - Gently pinch off or remove competing seedlings so that you are left with the healthiest seedling.
Plant the Seedling - Plant a single seedling in a hole, making sure it is planted at the same depth as it was in the starting container (except for plants like tomatoes that should be planted deeper). Gently tamp the soil down to remove air pockets.
Repeat - Repeat steps 5 through 7 for every seedling.
Water Again - Water the seedlings lightly right after transplanting.
Keep good records in a garden planner or journal! Your own notes will help you adapt the best seed starting and transplanting strategy for the next growing season.
Symptom |
Mistake |
Solution |
Seedlings Get Sunscald (Shown by white or silvery leaves on seedlings) |
If your newly transplanted seedlings get sunburnt, it is because they haven't been hardened off correctly. |
The most severely damaged leaves will not recover, but don’t prune away burnt foliage. Cover the seedling to shield it from the sun until it is properly adapted. Wait for new growth to emerge, then remove the damaged growth. |
Crop Rot (Shown by mushy stems, poor growth, or other symptoms) |
One transplanting mistake that can cause crop rot is burying seedlings too deep, which is commonly done to seedlings with floppy stems. |
Always plant seedlings at the same depth as they were in their starting container! (The only exception is tomatoes.) |
Fertilizer Burn (Shown by discolored brown or yellow leaves that may have crunchy edges) |
Too much nitrogen at one time. |
Using a fertilizer with a controlled release method, like Trifecta+, helps to avoid this situation. If you already have fertilizer burn, heavy watering can help dilute the excess fertilizer. |
Transplant Shock (Shown when plants wilt, brown, or leaves curl and fall away) |
Seedlings were not transplanted properly, or transplanting was done at the wrong time, or seedlings weren’t hardened off correctly. |
Care for the plant as you normally would and wait for it to bounce back. Next time, use the instructions in this guide for healthier seedlings. |
Root Bound (Shown by a dense, coiled entanglement of roots) |
Seedlings were not transplanted at the proper time. |
Transplant the seedling and then care for the plant as you normally would. (You can try loosening the root ball a bit when transplanting.) It will likely have stunted growth. Learn to properly assess transplanting timing for the future. |
Dehydration (Shown by wilted plants) |
Plants were not watered in well after transplanting, or the soil was extremely dry. |
After transplanting, water in the seedlings well. If the soil is extremely dry, wait until evening to water. With proper care, they should bounce back. |
These tips totally changed the way I transplant seedlings. I hope you all learned something new about how to transplant seedlings the right way so you can grow bigger!
Tomato seedlings are the ONLY seedlings that should be planted deeper than the original soil level because they can set roots all along the stem. Remove the lower leaves and bury the tomato up to the new first set of leaves.
For vegetative crops, pot up into a container that is 3x larger than the original. For fruiting crops, pot up into a container that is 4x larger.
Starting seeds indoors and then transplanting them gives you a head start, essentially making your growing season longer than outdoor conditions allow.
To lessen transplant shock, make sure the seedlings are ready to be transplanted and properly hardened off. Be gentle with the roots and water them well before and after planting.
When transplanting into larger pots, you'll need containers, soil mix, a dibbler, and water. For transplanting outdoors, you will need water, fertilizer, and a trowel.
Size is not a main indicator of when seedlings are ready to transplant.